When Ukraine is mentioned, what comes to mind? Perhaps the separatist fighters involved in the war in the Donbass region. If you’re a football fan, then likely Dynamo Kiev, who makes the Europa league tournament annually. Well, let’s take a trip east of downtown to wander through Ukrainian Village, take in the sights, and hear about more than just the ever-present game of war that holds Ukraine between the EU and Russia.
For starters, drop the “the”. Ukraine is proper name for this country. If you prefer a transliteration, then utilize Ukrayina. There’s a lot more to this former Soviet republic than meets the eye. However, as we are short of hryvnias, a jaunt through this neighborhood populated by immigrants who settled here after the fall of communism will suffice.
Starting at the western edge of the neighborhood, we stroll past shops advertising a modicum of shipping, legal, insurance, and other services like any other borough. Only this time, the names may be a little harder to read. How’s your knowledge of Cyrillic? If you want to be able to understand what’s written, knowledge of this alphabet is necessary. Careful though, not all Cyrillic alphabets are created equal. There are a few distinct letters, which may blur comprehension. Then there’s the language effect. As an ex-Soviet republic, many Ukrainians, especially those from Kiev, fluently speak the mother tongue of their previous satellite comrade. However, coming through the neighborhood speaking Russian is akin to putting ketchup on a Chicago dog, you heathen. Similar are the languages, but that’s like saying you’re from Chicago and hail from oh, Naperville. It’s just not the same.
Strolling through Ukrainian Village is a like a smaller Lviv, except it’s only about a mile long. Fortunately, this reduces our travel time significantly. Instead of a 10-hour flight, it’s roughly a 20-minute walk with no jet lag. In addition, this neighborhood is full of attractions, for all interests.
In Ukraine, 97% of the religious communities are Christian, with around half the makeup being Orthodox. This lends well to the two churches that quite literally tower over the skyline. When heading east, go slightly south and reach the St. Volodymyr Ukrainian Orthodox Church. Founded in 1968 and offering services in English and Ukrainian, the church serves as a focal point for art, religion, and learning opportunities. The entrance features a golden mosaic of its namesake titled the Baptism of the Ukrainians, represented alongside his mother, St. Olha. In addition to the divinity of the painting, the church’s 5 domes are modeled after the Hagia Sophia, or the Aya Sofia, in Istanbul. Enter this house of worship and become awestruck by the numerous frescos decorating its walls depicting the life of Christ, the apostles, and the Virgin Mary. These masterpieces would not look out of place in the Art Institute and unlike the museum, won’t charge a $23 entrance fee. Spend that on some Ukrainian gastronomy, which we’ll cover later. The other church, St. Nicholas, was constructed in the style of St. Sophia’s in Kiev. 13 weathered onion-shaped green domes dot the skyline, visible from anywhere in the community. Golden mosaics dot the front door, and standing in awe, struck by the chiming bells and the chatter of Ukrainian passing through the streets, one can’t help but feel taken back to the old country, transported in time through the beauty and elegance of every vertigo-inducing steeple, dome, and painting. This is no downtown.
Next to the museum lie the fascinating Ukrainian National Museum and the Ukranian Cultural Center. To enter, simply pay the $5 suggested donation and enter into a world of art, history, traditional dress, and yes, what us non-Ukrainians would refer to as decorative Easter eggs. Known as Pysanky, these works of wax are covered in historical and other significant symbols. Certain motifs date back to pre-Christian times, older than the cracks in the pavement on Fullerton. The eggs are dyed in multiple colorations, which creates a hypnotic effect when the wax is removed. Just don’t look for chocolate inside. You may break a tooth.
If you enter during a quieter hour, as the museum is solely open Thursday – Sunday, you may be lucky enough to get a semi-guided tour. The docent sat in the same rooms I occupied through each of the 3 floors, able to answer any question about traditional garb, holidays, instruments, culture, and more. The museum contains insight into the lesser-known Holodomor, or the hunger plague. Otherwise known as the Ukrainian genocide, as many as 12 million Ukrainians were said to have perished. I’ll leave more details to the visitor. Also, there’s a section on the 2014 protests in Maidan Square in Kiev, after leadership vetoed joining the EU. The struggle for inclusion is well documented and cloth from the very square is included. Both current pieces, quite literally, of history and the past are in abundance and presented with a wealth of knowledge. There’s also a work in progress on the top floor, but I won’t reveal details.
Near to the museum, there’s the Ukrainian Museum of Modern Art. Often, rotating collections will come through and although small, those in favor of modern art will enjoy their brief passing by. Admission is via a suggested donation, and like the above, hours are rather limited. A bi-lingual crowd is present throughout the neighborhood, so feeling out of place as a native English speaker is rather commonplace. Don’t worry, it builds character.
After all that cultural exploration, you’re likely hungry. Thankfully, like its former controller, your hunger will be vanquished after perusing a number of the local spots. Shokolad, Trident, and Old Lviv provide authentic dishes like Pelmini, Varenyky (don’t call me Pierogi), Borscht, and daily specials. Come for the food; stay because you can’t actually move from the filling portions. For a lighter snack, Rich’s, Ann’s, and Kasia’s all over deli and grocery service, providing your favorite old world favorites such as stuffed cabbage, potato pancakes, hunter’s stew, variations on the word pierogi, and herring. Great food, low prices, and service with an Eastern European smile. That’s to say, none at all.
After this short stroll through a slice of Eastern Europe, if you so desire to visit Ukraine, it’s rather easy to do so. Visas are not required for EU or US passport holders and flights are connected with British Airways, Lufthansa, Austrian, LOT Polish, and KLM; all offering routes from O’Hare. Due to the massive fall in the domestic currency’s exchange rate over the past couple years, Ukraine is an inexpensive destination. Notable city break opportunities include Odessa, Kiev, and Lviv. The eastern part of the country is still mired in conflict, but many other destinations remain safe for tourism. Learn the alphabet, learn a few words, and book your flight. If you’ve enjoyed this slice of Ukraine, the whole pie is going to taste a lot sweeter.
Dispatches by Alec 