All around the world, one of the most well-known, loved/hated, and common forms of transportation is the night bus. Utilized to save a night in a hotel and cut daytime travel down, the night bus is loved by few, hated by a few more, and utilized by most. Its convenience and plentiful options, especially when a night train route doesn’t exist, is seen from the developing to the developed world. Naturally, said development can be reflected in standards of comfort, cost, fellow passengers (livestock included), and seat selection. Having taken night buses around the world, some better than others, my expectations were simple: a reclining seat, legroom, personal space, and bathroom access. None of the above were about to be met.
Night buses cover the major routes while backpacking Southeast Asia. In Vietnam, said buses are known for their mostly lie-flat seats, comfort, and space. The Thai night buses offer a similar amount of space, plush reclining seats, and enough air conditioning to turn water into ice. Cambodian buses, on the other hand, present none of the above. At least the one I took, about 6 hours in length, was the equivalent of being offered a cot in an airport. Luxury, it is not. I was headed to Battambang, on the western side of the country, before transiting into the capital, Phnom Penh.
The first sign that the journey was going to drag on was the actual “seating” itself. Most night buses function in the same manor as city buses, with seats that recline and are built for sleeping. If you’re lucky, there’s also a modicum of leg room so that yours aren’t immediately crushed when the passenger in front of you cranks their backrest back. However, in Cambodia, these seats take the form of mattresses. Double mattresses to be exact. Yes, for your journey, you will be “seated” on an inflexible double bed. Also, if you’re solo, there will be a random person next to you. Need to meet people in Cambodia? Only travel by night bus. You’ll get accommodated quickly. I presume that if there was a couple, they would be able to request “seats” next to each other, should space remain.
The second sign was the length of the bed. In Cambodia, people are smaller than in the West. Being 1.91m / 6’3 does not leave much room for adjustment, as the beds are only about 1.60m / 5’3 end to end. Next to a random stranger. Ergo, for the entire ride, I was scrunched up knees-to-chest, lying on the equivalent of a down plywood board. Now, this would be more acceptable should the space by built for one. Swing and a miss.
I had the fortune of ending up next to a computer salesman, who, let’s call Jack. Jack didn’t mind the ride, as he actually fit in the compartment without having to partially assume the fetal position. He spoke English, and inquired about my trip and general thoughts on the country. He also had a lengthy diatribe on government corruption and how it affected his personal business ongoings. His family lived near Battambang, and was en route to see them, after months of being away doing business. He also apologized profusely for his “lack” of English skills, as is common in non-anglophone locales. Naturally, Jack’s English was excellent. Striving for a better life for his family, he would spent long periods of time in various provinces to earn a living. In addition, he took pity on my inflexibility and lack of contortion skills in being able to lie down comfortably. Jack kindly positioned himself near the edge, to allow me an extra bit of space. When your knees spend the ride at a 90 degree angle, any additional comfort is welcomed.
The third and final sign was the deficit of any shock or noise-reducing components. No Cambodia, a flimsy curtain is not suddenly going to cut out all wayward, shrieking conversations from the melange of nearby passengers. Add in Khmer’s tonality and zero noise canceling properties of the bus, and there was little sleep to be had. Also, having nothing to block the incoming light from sleeping next the window was a rude awakening when the sun rose. There is nothing better than a bumpy, cramped, stiff, and noisy night bus journey. On the bright side, we didn’t crash. The night bus in Cambodia made the Megabus look like a first class Emirates trip. And that’s with mine catching on fire and exploding.
For those looking to add a little spice and leg cramps to their overland journey throughout Southeast Asia, I recommend taking a few night buses. Traveling with locals and experiencing their mode of transport was an eye-opening ride. Quite literally, because I couldn’t fall asleep.
Dispatches by Alec 